How To Change Front Wheel Bearing On 1999 4runner 4wheel Drive

wnelax04sr5 [OP] New Fellow member

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If you can change your restriction pads/rotors, yous tin practice this
Pace 1. Purchase the bike bearing and hub from @nj636 super high quality function
https://www.4runners.com/threads/4th-fifth-gen-front end-hub-assemblies-4x4-4x2.154/

2. Remove tire and cycle
3. If yous have spidertrax, like i do, accept them off at present. i put a long screwdriver in the rotor confronting the caliper so that it didn't spin while i removed them, and then, make a pile

four. remove the bracket belongings the abs and brake lines on to the spindle, 12mm i believe
5. remove the caliper, two 17 mm bolts, they're on pretty damn tight
note; make sure you support it, don't bend the brake hard lines
six. take off the rotor, depending where you alive and how long its been since it was replaced, you may need to persuade it
7. i removed the 4 bolts property the wheel bearing/hub associates on next, 17mm once more, tin exist done either before or after the beam nut, i chose after
note; can only be done with the open end of a wrench, not a lot of room.
8. popular off the grit cap/hub cap, may take some prying if its never been off, i worked a flat handle screwdriver around the entire affair and information technology came off
9. you demand a 35 mm socket, deep well helps but isn't necessary

x. this is what you should be at now, touch on gun works all-time to have off the axle nut, it isn't frozen on like the rest of my rusted new england vehicle
note; it has a cotter pivot, nut cap, and the nut itself

11. put a piece of soft wood or utilize a lead hammer against the exposed piece of the beam, and lightly tap it till it breaks loose. don't striking it hard or y'all'll gamble damage threads or the axle
12. i used the pry bar end of my tire iron that comes in the toyota tool kit with the spare tire crank to pry the associates off. piece of work your way effectually and it will slowly come off, don't rush this step or y'all run a risk damaging the axle and/or the dust shield.
13. once you pull it off, the grit shield will drop. to reattach the dust shield an extra set of hands really helps.
13. now would be the fourth dimension to replace the dust seal for the knuckle.
the part
http://www.amazon.com/SKF-18491-Front-Axle-Seal/dp/B001DBOLHS
14. to reinstall, repeat all steps, i didn't write downwardly torque numbers so i don't take them off the top of my caput.
this is what you should cease with.

and this is the old piece

and no, my garage isn't carpeted, but laying down some pieces sure saves the knees and elbows

Last edited: Sep 29, 2014
Bob Member Staff Member

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swell writeup
added to the Mods & Tutorials menu at the top of the site
wnelax04sr5 [OP] New Member

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Thank you
brutalguyracing New Member

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i would add the new knuckle dust shield so you will non be doing this again allot sooner
wnelax04sr5 [OP] New Member

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forgot to put that in the write up, ill amend it
maybe a dumb question but 35mm 6pt or 12pt for the axle nut?
Likewise any other seals you'd replace if doing the axles at the same time as the njfox bearing swap? I saw the mention of the knuckle dust seal..
thank you
wnelax04sr5 [OP] New Member

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i used a 6pt, no other seals really, i suppose if information technology was croaky or broken you could supercede the metallic axle nut comprehend (hubcap)
inglwd New Fellow member

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Excellent write upwards. I used this for the front right begetting replacement I did today. Kevin equally mentioned above provided a high quality function for about $175. My experience would have benefited from the following knowledge: 1) salt belt states this job is harder. The bolts are really on there. Affect wrench was a large aid. 2) after the four hub bolts were unscrewed as far equally they could exist, the next office is the hardest part of the chore and you lot will break the grit shield with an air chisel, equally I did. That said, I needed an air chisel to break it out from the axle. I wish I would have known how fragile the dust shield was before taking this on. Also take a close look at your new part correct now to know how deep the hub is set up in the carrier. Helpful during extraction.
wnelax04sr5 [OP] New Member

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interesting points here. i live in the salt chugalug as well and didn't feel too much problem with stuck on parts, the grit shield was very difficult to go off though, i hold with you there
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I need a set up for a 1998 4 runner Limited 4x4 how can I buy a set
wnelax04sr5 [OP] New Fellow member

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nj636 New Member

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my assemblies are for the 03+ 4Runners
wnelax04sr5 [OP] New Member

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backman180 New Member

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Im no adept just in the heart of this job and comparing notes to other forum DIY's and doesnt it make sense to accept the beam nut off before the caliper and rotor. Im in a fleck of jam in that I cant stop the hub assembly from spinning to remove the axle nut (no brakes). I put the vehicle in gear but I dont practice this often and Information technology doesn't feel expert to put that much force into the beam to break this nut loose with a breaker bar. I may exist being sensitive, but im concerned about damaging the axle to break this nut loose. Had I reversed the club I could have another torso mash the brakes while I loosened the nut. Maybe not necessary only not sure what the best motion is from hither. Any thoughts. Am I missing something?
wnelax04sr5 [OP] New Member

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i waited until after to take it off, i have an air impact gun and coupled with the socket it was incredibly easy to remove, i didn't really have whatever issues with it
UssMoGn That Vegas Dude

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You damn 4th and 5th Gens make information technology wait and so easy
nj636 New Member

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you won't injure the cv shaft. put it in 4 wheel or have someone agree a pry bar between the studs while you loosen the nut. information technology's 173 foot pounds then it won't take much force to loosen it.
torque it when you reinstall
LTDSC Soccer Dad Extraordinaire

re-reading this for tonights bandy
Blue_Eyes_48 New Fellow member

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Hi,I am wondering if I can swap my pressed on wheel bearings for some other type if there is one. It'south going to be way too costly for me to get the front ones fixed beings that they are pressed.
Give thanks you,
Crystal
wnelax04sr5 [OP] New Member

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the about cost constructive method is to utilize the pre assembled bicycle bearing/hub assembly, it makes it a bolt on piece thats very like shooting fish in a barrel
nj636 New Member

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$175 for a DIY bolt on assembly -- The shops charge fashion to much & re-apply parts that should not be re-used.
Blue_Eyes_48 New Member

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So all I need is a cycle-hub associates that doesn't need pressed on? Thanks for the replies.
Crystal
wnelax04sr5 [OP] New Member

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that an an oil seal and youre skillful to go
nj636 New Member

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Yes I have the bicycle hub associates and if needed, the cv dust seal. l/l shot if the cv seal is damaged or not. You won't know until the hub assembly is unbolted from the spindle. The cv seal is piece of cake to replace.
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3" lift only by and large all stock not a scratch on it it is pristine status astonishing for beingness nineteen years old.

if you desire to bandy out the pressed in begetting for the easy hub assembly you will have to change the whole hub assembly unit. so it would be upper and lower control arms the one-half shafts but i don't think you can swap a 1998 to a 2001 or 2002. besides the pressed in bearings terminal a hell of a lot longer than the other hubs in the 2002 you can go almost 300.000 miles on the pressed in bearings if you make sure the oil seals are kept in good shape. LARRY B.
larramo 3ed gen faithfully

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3" lift but mostly all stock not a scratch on information technology it is pristine condition amazing for being nineteen years quondam.

besides when you have the hub assembly to the machine store they should not charge you more than than 65$ per side to press them in all you need to take them is the oil seals the bearing the abs band all the parts i'm talking nigh will cost you $340 from toyota for both sides i get my parts from camelback toyota you can observe them on the web at camelbacktoyota.com there prices are 20% cheaper than anywhere else. don't use parts from oreillys or autozone you will exist sorry they will not last LARRY B.

Last edited: Jul 26, 2017
radlynx New Fellow member

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Salvage yourself the hassle of pressing in and out of the onetime bearing. You can buy it from here cheap. https://www.ebay.com/itm/4Runner-Ta...ub-Bearing-Associates-4x4-with-ABS/112643309394
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what bearing is that? Looks like a cheap one
radlynx New Member

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yep, its a cheap one simply of skilful quality. I use information technology myself in my truck. if anyone is interested to save on price, this is your other option.